The year is 1987 and the place Santa Cruz, California. This is the year when the story of a young boy in love with the sea, Jay Moriarty, begins. Abandoned by his father at an early age, an only child raised by his mother who was more absent than not. From a very early age Jay loved the sea and this passion lead him to practice surfing. He spends more time at the sea than anywhere else, still he was a very responsible son, and took care of everything in the home, becoming the man of the house. Jay started to work early to bring money to the house because his mother was fired often for her chronic tardiness; finally he started to wake her up in the morning so she wouldn’t be late for work. He distinguished himself for his honesty and integrity and because when the other kids were playing games and indulging in vices he was working and training to grow in his chosen sport – surfing.
Jay reencounters Frosty Hesson who once saved him from a wave. When he was a kid, Jay admired him in secret, as a teenager he follows Frosty and discovers that he is part of a four man group, all master surfers, who ride the giant waves called Mavericks. A Maverick is a gigantic wave event that occurs during some months of the year influenced by the El Niño. After witnessing this spectacle, Jay decides to ask Frosty for help to learn to ride these waves. At the beginning Frosty refuses but his wife makes him understand that the boy would try it on his own and probably will cost him his life. As training begins, the first lesson is that this training has four pillars that are the base for human existence: physical, mental, emotional and spiritual. The hardest part is facing his fears, that going into the sea without first doing this could cost him his life in a panic. During training they shared many emotions, happy moments as well as sad, including the death of Frosty’s wife. Frosty becomes deeply depressed and goes to the deepest part of the ocean called the Abyss from where he doesn’t want to return. Jay follows him and when Frosty asks from which of the pillars does he hang on to keep on living he replies “You”. They had developed an unbreakable bond, more than friendship, it was a father and son relationship that Jay had never experienced and helped him become the man that he will be.
Jay reaches his dream, to ride the Maverick, thanks to Frosty’s training, his mother’s support and his life’s love, Kim. He became a surfing star. He only felt alive when he was riding the waves and had always believed that he would die young. He married Kim, and after winning several awards as a surfer, he died at age 22 while free diving at Las Malvinas.
Jay Moriarty’s story reminds me of a Walt Disney’s quote: “…if you can dream it, you can make it.” Jay had a dream, to ride the Maverick, his tenacity, dedication and sacrifices made him reach it. He overcame his fears, facing them so that nothing would thwart him in his way to reach his goal. Jay’s life is a wonderful example for young and adults: it doesn’t matter when, if you have a dream, you must try to reach it. The road might be easy or it may be difficult, but it doesn’t matter how many times you fall, what it’s important is how many times you get up to reach your goal. .
Jay reencounters Frosty Hesson who once saved him from a wave. When he was a kid, Jay admired him in secret, as a teenager he follows Frosty and discovers that he is part of a four man group, all master surfers, who ride the giant waves called Mavericks. A Maverick is a gigantic wave event that occurs during some months of the year influenced by the El Niño. After witnessing this spectacle, Jay decides to ask Frosty for help to learn to ride these waves. At the beginning Frosty refuses but his wife makes him understand that the boy would try it on his own and probably will cost him his life. As training begins, the first lesson is that this training has four pillars that are the base for human existence: physical, mental, emotional and spiritual. The hardest part is facing his fears, that going into the sea without first doing this could cost him his life in a panic. During training they shared many emotions, happy moments as well as sad, including the death of Frosty’s wife. Frosty becomes deeply depressed and goes to the deepest part of the ocean called the Abyss from where he doesn’t want to return. Jay follows him and when Frosty asks from which of the pillars does he hang on to keep on living he replies “You”. They had developed an unbreakable bond, more than friendship, it was a father and son relationship that Jay had never experienced and helped him become the man that he will be.
Jay reaches his dream, to ride the Maverick, thanks to Frosty’s training, his mother’s support and his life’s love, Kim. He became a surfing star. He only felt alive when he was riding the waves and had always believed that he would die young. He married Kim, and after winning several awards as a surfer, he died at age 22 while free diving at Las Malvinas.
Jay Moriarty’s story reminds me of a Walt Disney’s quote: “…if you can dream it, you can make it.” Jay had a dream, to ride the Maverick, his tenacity, dedication and sacrifices made him reach it. He overcame his fears, facing them so that nothing would thwart him in his way to reach his goal. Jay’s life is a wonderful example for young and adults: it doesn’t matter when, if you have a dream, you must try to reach it. The road might be easy or it may be difficult, but it doesn’t matter how many times you fall, what it’s important is how many times you get up to reach your goal. .
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